The History of the Palaka Shirt is really the history of Hawaiʻi's plantation workers, Japanese immigrants, and the development of a distinctly local style of clothing. And when telling that story, it is almost impossible to leave out Arakawa's of Waipahu.

In fact, Arakawa's did something very important: it helped transform the palaka from a practical work garment into an enduring symbol of Hawaiʻi's working-class identity and local culture.

There is an interesting distinction between the history of palaka itself and the role the Arakawa family played in making it famous.

1. The origins of the palaka shirt in Hawaiʻi

The origins of palaka go back to the early 1800s, long before the familiar aloha shirt became popular.

• Early 1800s: European and American sailors brought sturdy, checked cotton garments to the Hawaiian Islands.
• The word palaka is generally associated with the Hawaiian adaptation of the English word frock, although the precise linguistic history is debated.
• The original fabric was a heavy, tightly woven cotton, generally featuring dark blue and white checks.
• Its durability made it particularly suitable for people working in sugar plantations, pineapple fields, ranches, and on the docks.

By the late 1800s and early 1900s, Japanese immigrants working in Hawaiʻi's sugar industry had embraced the fabric.

The blue-and-white pattern reminded many Japanese workers of traditional indigo-dyed textiles from their homeland. They sometimes referred to it as gobanji, meaning a plaid or check pattern.

Palaka was not originally designed as a fashionable shirt. It was practical work clothing that could withstand difficult working conditions.

The fabric was thick, durable, and resistant to tearing and abrasion. It protected workers from scratches, rough vegetation, and the daily wear associated with plantation labor.

2. The Arakawa family enters the story

Zempan and Tsuru Arakawa — 1909

The Arakawa story begins with Zempan Arakawa, an immigrant from Okinawa, Japan.

He arrived in Hawaiʻi in approximately 1905 and initially worked on the sugar plantations.

Having experienced plantation life himself, he understood what workers needed: affordable clothing that could withstand the demands of their jobs.

In 1909, Zempan and his wife, Tsuru, established Arakawa Shoten in Waipahu.

The location was significant. Their store was close to the Waipahu Sugar Mill, which provided a steady customer base of plantation workers and their families.

Initially, the business was a modest general store. It sold everyday necessities, clothing, and supplies.

Zempan also developed his sewing skills, making and repairing clothing for plantation workers.

He recognized an opportunity to provide something that workers needed: durable, affordable work clothing made from palaka fabric.

By the 1920s, the Arakawa business had become closely associated with palaka clothing.

3. How Arakawa's helped make palaka a Hawaiian institution

This is where the Arakawa family's contribution becomes particularly important.

Arakawa's was not necessarily the inventor of the palaka shirt. Palaka garments already existed. What the family did was help popularize, manufacture, distribute, and establish the shirt as an important part of Hawaiʻi's identity.

There were several reasons for this.

1. They understood their customers.

Zempan had worked in the plantations himself. He knew that plantation workers needed clothing that was affordable, comfortable, and durable.

2. They specialized in palaka.

Arakawa's became one of Hawaiʻi's best-known sources of palaka fabric and finished garments. Its association with the distinctive blue-and-white check became increasingly strong.

3. The shirt evolved.

The original palaka garment was generally more like a work jacket, with a heavier fabric and longer sleeves.

Over time, shorter-sleeved, more comfortable versions became popular. These were worn not only by plantation workers but also by ordinary residents.

4. They made palaka part of everyday Hawaiian life.

By the 1930s and 1940s, palaka was no longer confined to plantation work.

People wore it:

• To school and sporting events.
• To family gatherings.
• To parties and social functions.
• To the beach.
• To work and everyday activities.

The 1932 report of the Honolulu Chamber of Commerce even described palaka as approaching a national costume.

The shirt had crossed social and occupational boundaries.

4. Goro Arakawa: The man who helped establish palaka's cultural identity

An especially important figure in the Arakawa story was Goro Arakawa, one of Zempan and Tsuru's children.

Goro became one of the best-known representatives of the family business.

He was more than a businessman. He was a community leader and an advocate for preserving the history and significance of plantation life in Hawaiʻi.

He understood that palaka represented something much larger than a particular style of clothing.

It represented:

• The immigrant experience.
• The hardships and contributions of plantation workers.
• The development of Hawaiʻi's multicultural society.
• The pride of ordinary working people.
• A connection between generations of local families.

Goro helped communicate this significance through Arakawa's advertising, newspaper articles, and public discussions about plantation history.

The Kona Historical Society credits the Arakawa family's promotional efforts with helping establish palaka as a local fashion statement, rather than simply work clothing.

One of Goro's most memorable statements captures the family's philosophy:

"Palaka is more aloha than the aloha shirt."

That statement is particularly meaningful because it places palaka within the history of Hawaiʻi itself, rather than simply within the tourist-oriented image of Hawaiian fashion.

5. Arakawa's becomes an institution in Waipahu

Over the decades, Arakawa's grew from a small plantation supply store into one of Hawaiʻi's largest rural department stores.

The business eventually became famous for carrying just about everything a family might need.

It served generations of Waipahu residents and became a community institution.

The store's connection to palaka was especially strong because customers associated the distinctive fabric and shirts with the Arakawa family.

The important dates are:

The store's closure in 1995 marked the end of an important chapter in Waipahu's commercial and cultural history.

6. What happened to palaka after Arakawa's closed?

Although Arakawa's closed in 1995, the palaka tradition did not disappear.

In fact, palaka experienced renewed interest during the Hawaiian cultural renaissance and the emergence of the Palaka Power movement in the 1980s.

It became a way for people, particularly descendants of plantation workers, to express pride in their heritage.

Designers also began experimenting with:

• Different colors, including red, green, yellow, and black.
• Different fabric weights.
• Modern cuts and styles.
• Palaka dresses, shorts, accessories, and other clothing.

Today, palaka is increasingly recognized as an important historic Hawaiian textile, distinct from the colorful floral aloha shirt.

The University of Hawaiʻi has described palaka as the denim of Hawaiʻi because of its association with working people and its ability to cross ethnic and social boundaries. ​​​​​​​

7. The continuation of the Arakawa palaka tradition

There is an interesting continuation of the Arakawa legacy.

The modern Arakawas Palaka label describes itself as a tribute to the original Arakawa's of Waipahu.

It carries forward the association with traditional palaka shirts, emphasizing woven cotton fabric, traditional construction, and coconut buttons.

This is an important distinction: the original Arakawa department store closed in 1995, but the Arakawa palaka name and tradition have continued through a separate contemporary clothing venture.

8. Why the Arakawa story matters to Hawaiʻi

I think the most important part of this history is that palaka represents something that the aloha shirt, despite its international popularity, does not quite represent in the same way.

The aloha shirt became an internationally recognized symbol of Hawaiʻi, particularly through tourism.

Palaka, however, has a particularly strong connection to the people who built the modern Hawaiian community.

It represents the plantation era, the immigrant experience, the working families of Hawaiʻi, and the blending of cultures that helped create our local identity.

Arakawa's helped preserve that connection.

The Arakawa family didn't simply sell palaka shirts. They helped give the shirt a place in Hawaiʻi's cultural history.

Historical references worth exploring

These are particularly useful if you want to research the subject further or document its history:

1. Kona Historical Society – Palaka: A Story About Hawaiʻi's Hardworking, Proud Print. Particularly valuable for understanding Goro Arakawa's contribution.
2. University of Hawaiʻi – The Denim of Hawaiʻi: How Palaka Weaves Together History and Modern Style. An excellent historical and cultural overview.
3. FLUX Hawaiʻi – Why Palaka, Hawaiʻi's Staple Fabric, Has Endured. Discusses the transition from work clothing to everyday fashion.
4. Images of Old Hawaiʻi – Arakawa's. Particularly useful for the history of the Arakawa family and the Waipahu store.
5. Smithsonian Magazine – A Signature Hawaiian Textile With a Rich History. A broader historical perspective.

One final thought: There is a compelling story here that goes beyond clothing. Palaka is a tangible connection to the generations of people who worked the plantations, raised families, built communities, and helped make Hawaiʻi what it is today.

That is why Goro Arakawa's statement that palaka is more aloha than the aloha shirt remains such a meaningful expression of local pride.